Wool, acrylique, acetate and polyester cap, embossed front pattern
The Fall-Winter collection 2013-14 draws its inspiration from the North of England’s industrial and mining atmosphere of the early 20th century. The photo documentary of Bill Brandt is at the very core of the creative impulse that focuses on the austere ambiances of the workers and manufacturing landscapes collected in his « Shadow of Light ». The rough and utilitarian aesthetics drawn from these real life moments is mixed with Venetian splendor – the Fortuny – adding graphics and pleat to the collection. The shades of shadows are transcribed through texture apparent on each piece and always tone-on-tone. Materials are dense, almost heavy; knits are compact, fabrics are deep, as if rich with intense memory. Cuts are pragmatic and straight-forward, inspired from ancient workers’ outfits such as miner jumpsuits or multi-pocket aprons, the most sophisticated ornament being an unconventional assembly with gaps or double layers. Finishings for all garments, knits, woven pieces and leather, are raw. Every material is selected with care, all warm and comfortable: 100% virgin wool, velvet Italian yarns, Austrian flannel with made-to-measure anarchic stripes, technical fabric woven in France with 3D-Fortuny graphics for a “cuir de Cordoue” rendering, top-stitched plunged lamb.
The color range inevitably revolves around tinted blacks – deep black, dark navy, charcoal grey, brown mélange – occasionally disrupted by bright pure white to add sparks of light.
Fall-Winter collection by Deborah and Priscilla Royer